katestine: (climbing)
Maybe it's just that I went to Secret Science Club on Weds, which always reminds me of Pleasure Salon, if the latter were about science and had a speaker, science rocks for realz ), but the journey to Adirondack Rock & River reminded me of going to Camp. I totally got out of work late bc while I had nothing to do at 5pm, I had a PT appt at 6 and then some work magically found its way to my desk while I was out grr. Caught the last bus (for a while) to New Paltz, where my long-suffering climbing mentor picked me up. It started raining, for which I would've had a fit if I were him, but he is more patient than I. He was shocked that I wanted to eat 8 BK sliders, even between the two of us, but that was dinner. We got to Rock & River by about 1, where the party was going full blast. In what would become a trend for the weekend, we were the last to arrive, to much rejoicing.

I felt less bad about my extremely late arrival bc we spent Fri morning hanging around the breakfast room at R&R while GMac took a conference call. Then we climbed classics. )

We stopped for Maker's Mark at the Ausable Inn. The bartender was funny and said it would be okay for me to drink mine on the rocks bc I'm a lady. Teehee. GMac teased me on the way out that the Marcy airfield was the perfect place to learn to drive, but then on our way back to the lodge, he turned in to the field. He said that being relaxed would help my first lesson in how to drive stick. I drove around the field several times and feel like I have a little feel for it and a vague idea of how it's supposed to work, but he's hella better at explaining top rope anchors than driving. I only stalled once, but really, I think I'll stick to airfields and empty parking lots for now.

RobO had organized catering for dinner and hanging out with 15 other climbers was fun. I had Stag's Leap with dinner and then I had Madeira on the porch. I've fallen in love with the Climber's Lodge at Rock & River. There's a geometric patterned staircase to the loft, but the centerpiece is a vast fireplace with a magnificent stone chimney. What a clever idea to build a chimney from stone - and leave enough space in the mortar for small fingers and cams! They even have top ropes permanently attached to anchors at the top, in case you didn't think they were serious. I climbed 3 routes in the back: I still don't have the cojones to try climbing the front while there's a fire in it. (And, the front doesn't really have handholds built in, though that didn't stop RobO or PYF from trying. They should know better at their age!)

Despite a late bedtime and a not late enough start, Sat was an awesome day of climbing. Apparently climbing is more fun with other people. ) All in all, it was the best climbing I've had since the accident and it reminded me that I'm pretty good at this stuff and why I like it.

I actually watched the storm clouds start moving in as I belayed him on the cliff, with the start of sunset on the horizon. Just gorgeous. Back at the lodge, we had sausage lasagna and garlic bread and birthday cake. GMac organized Adirondacks trivia with our three club officers as the contestants. I suggested the final question, asking them to tie knots behind their back while blindfolded. (I also contributed 2 blindfolds and one of the prizes.) Instant hilarity, especially as one of the cute girls in the club was passed out, but woke up only to see that bit, which confused the heck out of her. We finished off the Madeira and went to bed.

Most everyone left the next morning, but for $10pp, we decided to wait out the storm at the lodge. Good thing too, as our friends spent 12 hours in traffic, dodging flooded roads in the rain. Instead we went to town for lunch and dinner supplies. We stopped at the Mountaineer, but there were no bargains to be had at their garage sale. We were shopping in the main store when the owner said, "We're closing in 5 mins bc of the rain." We were probably the last customers ever at the garage sale annex. When we got back to the lodge, the power was already out and the bathtub had drained itself. *sighs* GMac and RobO had a blast climbing the chimney, mostly to open and close the skylights based on smokiness and how much water was getting in. GMac made me climb again as well, pointing out that I had a free, private climbing wall I wasn't using. I enjoyed hanging out with them, but zomg I need some alone time now. I took a nap and then RobO grilled the steak and lamb.

After dinner, he suggested we tell ghost stories, but no one knew any good ones, so instead, he suggested we tell about our biggest epic. I can't believe that in a crowd including someone with decades of mountaineering experience, our club chair, and a dedicated mountaineer like RobO, I had the worst epic, by far. You know what mine is. ) wtf. I'm doing something wrong. Also, GMac made me drink single malt. He's so mean.

We all quietly left at 6:15 the next morning. The drive back wasn't bad: as soon as we got into town, they had power and we stopped at Starbucks for breakfast. There were a few detours because 87 was closed from Harriman south, but we made it back to NYC a bit afternoon. The price of driving me to my apt was lunch so I took GMac to Salumeria Rosi, which I don't think he liked all that much, even though I ordered all sorts of nummy things and didn't steal all his wine. Then there was work and dealing with Mr. Grumpypants. Totally worth it.
katestine: (climbing)
If it's not LJ & the Russians, it's my computer not being able to handle 2 browsers AND McAfee dagnabbit. If I weren't leaving town Thurs night, I'd've bought a new computer already.

Fri was my manager's last day at work for 18 days1, so things were frantic, even without my leaving an hour early. I left a half hour later than I wanted, which was a half hour later than Evil English recommended - but luckily I found an empty cab that just came back to duty and traffic was only moderate. I couldn't believe how uncrowded the airport was and how fast I got through security: where were all the weekend travelers? It's like a chunk of NYC/the Northeast just went away - I assume they're not all on extended vacations bc the market is so bad. I guess we'll see in the fall.

GMac is a very silly man and spews beta ) He'd been scouting our route for the past two days and since it's supposed to be the best alpine climb in the Northeast, he assumed if we couldn't get an alpine start, he decided we should take it easy the next morning and plan to be after the crowd had died down. Which is of course why we got to Whitney Gilman and found no one signed in. not a good start ) Ever since Grand Teton - not to mention the Red Rocks epic - I've been nervous about alpine climbs and I was afraid that this would happen. GMac has two decades of mountaineering experience, mostly in the Cascades, and has never hiked with me; he's also the best climbing buddy I have right now, so I particularly didn't want to disappoint him.

The real problem with Whitney Gilman is that it's what climbers call committing: described ) Apparently when we were off route in the boulder field, GMac had considered going to our second choice, an easier, less committing climb to our right, but decided he wanted me to bag the classic, he said with a kiss to my forehead. ARGH. Bc when we got to the base of Whitney Gilman, he decided he didn't like the looks of the weather - we'd hiked in under a hot sun, but when we got there, there were grey clouds and a single raindrop fell on his head. He said less (but still a little) about being worried that it took us 1.5 hours to get to the base; frankly, I think he was also worried about making the 5.7 crux at the very end of the climb, as he hasn't been out climbing as much as he wants. Anyhow, we ate our PB&J on a rock and then started walking down.

Alpine descents are the worst part of climbing, imho, even on the best of days and I'm still having trouble with my knee + ankle, so he had to wait for me often. Finally he offered to take the rope. In the club, the rule is, the leaders takes the rack, the seconds take the rope. However, weighting him and lightening me might make the walk out more copacetic, so I reluctantly ceded the rope. The pace got better and I was about to ask him how his ankle was doing - he'd twisted it a month ago in his AMGA single pitch instructor course, but seemed fully recovered - when with a yell, he was on his back on the ground. When I asked if he was all right, he said no, but he's always sarcastic... When I got to him, I was horrified to see his leg sandwiched between a rock and a stump, but apparently the offending boulder was the one he'd been standing on, which tumbled down the hill. He immediately popped four Motrin, I took the rope (and all his draws, so maybe a quarter of the rack), and he stumbled down the hill.

It's weird to me how the dynamic change, how my body responded. I'm better in emergencies ) I posted a picture on FB of his ankle when we got to the parking lot again, bc I've been twisting my ankle for 27 years and I've never seen such big lump in my life. On the other hand, he says that's the most epic thing that's ever happened to him on a climb.2

We went for a swim in the lake next to the parking lot. I thought it was freezing, but then, I think 79F is cold. We drove back to the room for showers and an Ace bandage. He iced his foot and we chatted with our Harley driving neighbors at the Econolodge. Dinner was mediocre steaks slathered in blue cheese at Gordie's and then we hopped in the jacuzzi before bed.

When I woke up, I asked GMac, "What time were we getting up again?" "Half an hour ago, but it's been raining since 4:30." He'd suggested we could go cragging - he could at least belay me, he kept saying.34 Climbing in the rain sucks though. I think it says something about what a sweetheart he is that he was so worried that I'd had a bad time that he was willing to sit around belaying me and giving me beta, whereas I felt terrible that my weakness meant he'd been injured and was now unable to climb for who knows how long.5 Instead we went shopping, wherein GMac discovered I lose all track of time when contemplating gear. what I bought )

It was GMac's right ankle that was injured, so I drove 2/3rds of the way home. We hit moderate traffic, which seemed to upset him a lot, even though we hit the road just before noon. I did okay, with only one exclamation from him and a few grumbles when I'd ask him if I could switch lanes. He found it amusing to read to me from Cosmo as I drove; eventually I asked him a random question about his career, which led him to tell me about working for NASA in the early eighties, radio hijinks with the Russians in Sudan, and testifying in a patent litigation case. Maybe it's that this was my fourth weekend in a row to climb or maybe it's just bc he's had an interesting life, but I'd call this a pretty decent weekend.

Footnotes )
katestine: (climbing)
Fri night I rushed to Ct to see She Loves Me and it was ok )

Sat I drove to the Gunks for the first time. My mum made me a nice breakfast and packed a lovely lunch and the drive itself was fine: 1 hour over properly speed-limited highways and then 30mins on 55mph?? country roads through the town of Gardiner. I discovered a perfect parking spot in the lot: to the right of the outhouse is an area about 2.5 car widths, so I don't feel bad about my sucky parking skills. If I don't have plans the night before (or an offer of a ride), I might do this more often.

The lead instructor took me and a student to the far end of the Near Trapps, and pushed me to try leading ) We finished the route, walked to the bottom of the cliffs, and GMac lead the 5.6 again so he could set up a top rope on a 5.8 and a 5.10. I couldn't get the 5.8 - there was an overhangy move where I needed an extra 3" or the strength to push off a leg that was waist high. In the end, I'm glad that GMac pushed me, both bc he's a patient and encouraging instructor and bc otherwise the day would've been fairly disappointing.

I don't know what it was on Sat, but halfway through the day, I was already tired. I had plenty of food at that point - I ate a nice chicken salad sandwich and two clementines - but my pack felt heavier as we walked along the cliffs. It could've been the heat or maybe I was tired from Thursday's climbing lesson :-(

Dinner at the Gold Fox was awful - the bbq platter was three different kinds of meat, all in the same bottled sauce - but I sat with the long-time members (read: leaders) and got the inside skinny on club doings. Ride home was uneventful and I only did one dodgy thing; arrived home just before midnight.

I'm afraid my biggest accomplishment for Sunday was washing my hair and doing a face mask. I couldn't sleep past 9, had lunch with the 'rents, checked my email, took the aforementioned shower - and got a call from my sister that my mother was drinking margaritas, would I like to join them. oy. After my parents left for their show, my sister and I hung out at my place, which was our first QT since she left for Venice and we had so very much to talk about. Best line of the night was when she commented, "So all a guy has to say is, 'You're so smart. Can I cook you dinner?'" uh...

She left pretty early, but I slept very badly (partially bc my building hasn't switched to cooling yet) and was up every 2 hours or so :-( I dreamt that the guy I'm lusting after was showing me how to use his iPhone (really Subconscious? that's the best you could do??) and then I dreamt that my grandson had come back from the future and had edited my most recent quotes post, putting in stuff that shouldn't be public. (Really, Subconscious, wtf??)

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katestine

February 2025

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