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"The Leader Must Not Fall"
Nov. 8th, 2010 08:45 amIt turns out that Patagonia has a lifetime guarantee on their products, so ( I have a new fleece ) so please don't laugh when you see me in Muppet blue, bc I am warm.
Sat was supposed to be my day to get stuff done at home, so I made a list, bought food for the week at Fairway, and came home to cook a week's worth of chili and do laundry. ( spice geeking )
As the chili was just about finished, I got a call from LBro, asking where I was. Turns out he'd joined my sister for an appt at the energy worker's - and they'd be in my apt in 15 mins. ARGH! Apparently he'd made chili the night before: when I called my mum to ask how long she cooks hers for, she told me he bought a box of chili mix, brought it home -- and was outraged to discover that he had to go back to the store to buy meat. HAHAHA. And then he called her back to ask what "brown the meat" meant and was indignant that he had to brown all of it. Needless to say, he was trying to impress a girl with his favoritest dish in the world, tacos. Which didn't stop him from coming into my apt and demanding I make him tacos. I had old taco shells, so they took the spinach and tomatoes and avocado I bought for lunch this week, grated my buffalo parmiggiano, and ate it all up. Then Lbro said he was tired, flopped in my bed, and asked me to wake him at 6:30. *sighs*
I did laundry and entertained my sister. He wouldn't shoo at 6:30 - actually, he wouldn't even leave my bedroom so I could dress for dinner - and then he complained about my outfit saying, "You just need a spear and you'd be ready to hunt zebras" and "Can't you wear a nice dress? I know you have nice dresses, I bought you one, wear that." I tried to explain it wasn't a cocktail party, so I didn't need to wear Betsey Johnson, but he wouldn't leave until I dug out an old purchase from Gilt, so yeah. And then he and my sister argued about what shoes I wore and then my sister wanted to do my eye makeup and that, my dear, is why I was half an hour late for drinks. Sorry. Best line was when my sister wouldn't let me use my fave new Kate Spade bag and insisted I find a little clutch, saying, "It's a woman's job to freeze to death so she can look nice" and "Your bag should be large enough to carry your phones, your ID so you can drink, and cab fare for tmw morning." *snigger*
Sun I finally got my day of lead climbing with JBeau and it was a wonderful way to end the season. ( I should get Black Diamond to sponsor me )
Overall, he gave me a B+ for the day, saying that 90% of my placements would hold a leader fall; hopefully when I take a leader fall, it'll be on one of the good ones. In general, JBeau told me my cams could be placed 20% tighter and my nuts need to be placed more firmly. Throughout Ken's Crack, he kept saying things like, "NRod could belay you through this, if you told her to hold you tight on this section..." which seemed weird bc zomg I'm not ready to climb with a non-leader! I told him that I've been assuming all along I'd need a half dozen days of pure, supervised leads and so far he and I have done 2. ( this year in numbers )
Sat was supposed to be my day to get stuff done at home, so I made a list, bought food for the week at Fairway, and came home to cook a week's worth of chili and do laundry. ( spice geeking )
As the chili was just about finished, I got a call from LBro, asking where I was. Turns out he'd joined my sister for an appt at the energy worker's - and they'd be in my apt in 15 mins. ARGH! Apparently he'd made chili the night before: when I called my mum to ask how long she cooks hers for, she told me he bought a box of chili mix, brought it home -- and was outraged to discover that he had to go back to the store to buy meat. HAHAHA. And then he called her back to ask what "brown the meat" meant and was indignant that he had to brown all of it. Needless to say, he was trying to impress a girl with his favoritest dish in the world, tacos. Which didn't stop him from coming into my apt and demanding I make him tacos. I had old taco shells, so they took the spinach and tomatoes and avocado I bought for lunch this week, grated my buffalo parmiggiano, and ate it all up. Then Lbro said he was tired, flopped in my bed, and asked me to wake him at 6:30. *sighs*
I did laundry and entertained my sister. He wouldn't shoo at 6:30 - actually, he wouldn't even leave my bedroom so I could dress for dinner - and then he complained about my outfit saying, "You just need a spear and you'd be ready to hunt zebras" and "Can't you wear a nice dress? I know you have nice dresses, I bought you one, wear that." I tried to explain it wasn't a cocktail party, so I didn't need to wear Betsey Johnson, but he wouldn't leave until I dug out an old purchase from Gilt, so yeah. And then he and my sister argued about what shoes I wore and then my sister wanted to do my eye makeup and that, my dear, is why I was half an hour late for drinks. Sorry. Best line was when my sister wouldn't let me use my fave new Kate Spade bag and insisted I find a little clutch, saying, "It's a woman's job to freeze to death so she can look nice" and "Your bag should be large enough to carry your phones, your ID so you can drink, and cab fare for tmw morning." *snigger*
Sun I finally got my day of lead climbing with JBeau and it was a wonderful way to end the season. ( I should get Black Diamond to sponsor me )
Overall, he gave me a B+ for the day, saying that 90% of my placements would hold a leader fall; hopefully when I take a leader fall, it'll be on one of the good ones. In general, JBeau told me my cams could be placed 20% tighter and my nuts need to be placed more firmly. Throughout Ken's Crack, he kept saying things like, "NRod could belay you through this, if you told her to hold you tight on this section..." which seemed weird bc zomg I'm not ready to climb with a non-leader! I told him that I've been assuming all along I'd need a half dozen days of pure, supervised leads and so far he and I have done 2. ( this year in numbers )